Ships still get wrecked along this desolate coastline, inhabited only by seals and storied by tales of thick sea mists, roaring winds and deadly currents. There's something about the malevolent nothingness that's wildly appealing, but when the skull & crossbones sign appears, veer inland to camps along sparse riverbeds, where jackals, brown hyenas and desert-adapted elephant, rhino and even lion roam.