Field Notes: Josie’s First Safari, Day 1

Our Safari Legends journey began this morning at O.R. Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg. By 10 AM, our full group had gathered—four returning Bushtracks travelers, two new to the brand, and me. It’s a great mix of personalities, and there was instant camaraderie.

We were welcomed by our expedition leader, Vivienne Gunning—Vivie—who couldn’t be more perfect for this journey. Sweet and soft-spoken, she’s South African through and through, with a deep passion for Africa’s wildlife, cultures, history, and people. She’s been with Bushtracks for over 20 years and brings the ideal balance of knowledge, fun, and friendliness. It was clear right away that we were in the best hands.

A representative from FedAir met us and transferred us to a private terminal, where we boarded our short flight into the bush. Touching down at MalaMala felt like stepping into another world. At the airstrip, we were greeted by Mike Moth, our private guide for the next few days. Mike is also South African and has lived a life filled with global adventures—but it’s here, in the bush, where he’s found his heart. He told me he has to pinch himself every day. He’s kind, patient, witty, and absolutely loves what he does. We knew instantly we were lucky to have him.

We drove to MalaMala Camp and had time to settle into our rooms and enjoy lunch on the deck overlooking the Sand River. That’s when it really sank in—I was finally here. After dreaming of going on safari for so long, I was just hours away from my very first game drive.
And what a way to begin.

That afternoon, we climbed into our open safari vehicle and set off into the reserve. Within minutes, we were spotting wildlife: nyala, baboons, impala. Then we turned a corner and came upon a lone giraffe, standing tall and calm just off the road. He seemed to be watching us as much as we were watching him. The light was soft, the moment unforgettable.

Soon after, we encountered a herd of elephants in a wide clearing. Two of the younger ones were playfully sparring—twisting trunks, bumping tusks—while the others grazed nearby. It was pure joy to witness.

Mike proved his skill quickly, stopping several times to examine fresh tracks. “Leopard,” he said. “A mother and two cubs, not far.” He kept driving, eyes scanning the bush, following the signs only someone with his experience would notice. We crossed dry riverbeds and open plains, and passed under a tree where a massive eagle was perched, watching the road from above.

And then—there they were.

A female leopard and her two cubs, resting in the branches of a tree stretched over a dry riverbed. The cubs were full of energy, wrestling and tumbling over each other in the limbs, while their mother watched nearby. It was mesmerizing. One by one, the cubs lost their grip and fell from the branches, landing in the soft sand below. They snuggled up to their mom and began nursing right there in front of us. It was intimate and quietly breathtaking.

Just then, one of our younger travelers spotted movement farther down the riverbed—lions. Mike explained that while the leopard and her cubs were still visible, we could act as a distraction, allowing the mother a window to guide her young to safety. So we left them in peace and continued on.

Moments later, we arrived at the lions—six of them, lounging in the sand, their bellies full and their bodies relaxed. They were just feet from our vehicle. I was completely in awe—and also a little terrified. Here I was, on safari for the first time, sitting a few feet from six massive lions. It was incredible. They barely acknowledged us, completely accustomed to vehicles, and we had time to observe them in total stillness as the sun sank behind the trees.

Before returning to camp, we looped back to where we’d seen the leopards. There they were—back up in the branches, tucked safely above the riverbed. All was well.

Dinner that evening was under a canopy of stars—no big production, just good drinks, a delicious meal, and the hum of night settling over MalaMala. The camp is stunning: contemporary and comfortable, but completely immersed in the wild. My room is peaceful and beautiful, and after such a full day, I fell asleep completely content.

It’s hard to believe this was only Day 1. My very first game drive—and already it’s more than I ever imagined.