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AfricaInOurTravelersWords CoverTomPassalacquaandgrandsonLucaMasaiMaraKenyapage6.DearTravelerForover20yearswehavepassionatelypresentedtheideaoftravelingtoAfricaanddescribedoursafarisinathousandways.Weknowwithoutadoubtitisapricelessexperiencebecausewewerebornandraisedthere.ButAfricasmagicishardtoconveyparticularlytothosewhohaveneverbeen.SoweturnedtosomeofourtravelerstoseehowtheyfeelabouttheirAfricanexperienceandwhytheydecidedtogo.Attheendofthedayourtravelerssayitbest.SincerelyDavidandCarolynTettFoundersBushtracksExpeditions InFebruary2003CynthiasdearestriendKalpanaChawlawaskilledinthetragiccrashothespaceshuttleColumbia.Shewasdevastated.Jimsuggestedtheygosomewherereallyspecialtoprovidespacetogrieve.ThatwasthefrstyeartheytraveledwithBushtracksandtheydevelopedanotherlielongrelationshipthistimewiththecontinentoArica.Theyhavetraveledwithuseveryyearsincecurrentlyninetimes.BothJimandIfeelthesamewaywedeeplyloveAfrica.Duringourentiretimetherewefeltasifwewerestandingwherelifeitselfbegan.CynthiaTuthillBiochemistAuthorJimOrrRetiredSoftwareConsultant1.800.995.8689WWW.Bushtracks.com3 BobandShirleybookedtheirfrstsaariagrouptripuptheGreatRitValleyinaDC-3atertalkingwithDavidTettaboutAricaataUCBerkeleyAlumnitravelreceptionin1999.ThirteensaarislatertheysaytheyintendtokeepgoingonsaarisoreverTheSandersonshavetraveledonseveralBushtracksculturaltripstoAricaandIndiaincludingNorthAfricaandtheGreatSaharaandCasablancatotheCape.WevetakenthemtoTimbuktuthreetimesandarrangedasunrisephotoshootothepyramidsatMeroeSudan.Severalcountriesonthesetripscannolongerbevisitedsoweregladtohavebeenapartotheirgowhilewecantravelstrategy.SeeingaleopardinatreeanelephantmatriarchleadingherherdwilddogsfeedingtheirpupsorlionsenjoyingfamilytimegivesusaglimpseofwhattheGardenofEdenwaslike.ShirleySandersonRetiredLawyerTurnedWildlifePhotographerBobSandersonRetiredHighTechExecutiveTurnedSherpa4 WehavebeenincrediblyluckytowitnesslionresearchbeingdoneinZambiaandKenya.Mostpeopledontrealizethatthenumbersolionshavedroppedanalarming80inthepast30yearsinArica.Theseresearchprojectsaredesignedtohelpreversethattrend.In2011wewerestayingatShumbaCampinKaueNationalParkZambiawhenwelearnedthatNeilMidlanetheprincipalresearcherortheKaueLionProjectwouldbecollaringalionessaspartohisinvestigationonKaueslionpopulation.Neilgraciouslyallowedustowatchthedartingcollaringandtakingomeasurementsonthesubjectlioness.WewerethenthrilledtobeabletohelpwiththedartingbyallowingveterinarianHarveyKamboyiotheZambiaWildlieAuthorityshootadartatthelionessromthetoprowoourcompletelyopensaarivehiclewhichgavehimamuchbetterangle.Aterprotectingthelionessseyeswithaclothwraptheradiocollarwasttedtoherneck.Theteamcheckedherteethmeasuringthecaninesandbloodwasdrawnortesting.Theythenmeasuredherheightbodylengthandtaillength.Finallytheteamadministeredanantidotetoreversetheefectsotheanesthetic.Theystayedwiththelionessuntilshewasullyabletowalkanddeendhersel.AlionesstestsaherdobufaloinDumaTauBotswana.ShirleySanderson1.800.995.8689WWW.Bushtracks.com5 AsaveryyounggirlmypassionorAricawasignitedthroughautobiographicalbooksandnovelsdepictingthehistoryandwondersoKenyatheMaraChyuluHillsandspecifcallyMt.Kilimanjaro.ItoldmyparentsatthetimethatSomedayIwillwalkoutoatentandseeMt.KilimanjaroTheyearsdidnotdiminishthedesiretorealizethatexperience.Thatdayfnallycame60yearslaterwheninJuneo2012mydreamwasulflledandwassharedwithmyhusbandchildrenandgrandchildren.ThemorningthatIsteppedoutoatentinCampiYaKanziandsawMtKilirisingmajesticallybeoremewastrulyanemotionalmoment.SomedayIwillwalkoutofatentandseeMt.KilimanjaroSandiPassalacquaFounderHeadofSchoolatTeHealdsburgSchoolTomPassalacquaAttorneyandWine-GrapeGrower6 Howeverthistripwasatransformationalexperienceforall12ofus.Thethreegenerations73to4yearsofagegreatlyappreciatedthecustom-designedsafarihonedsocarefullybyDavidandCarolyntoaddressourparticularinterestsculturallyenvironmentallyandeducationally.TheextensionsofcareandattentiontodetailsbyBushtrackswereextraordinaryprovidingourfamilyof7adultsand5childrenwithverymeaningfulgroundedinteractionsthatincludedpen-palsvisitstoschoolsmultipleexchangeswithMaasaivillagersandcloseencounterswithorphanedelephants.TheamazinggameviewingintheMaraandChyuluHillswithmajesticsceneryisanadventureonehastopersonallyencounterandcannotbeadequatelydescribedbywords.WewerealltoucheddeeplybythisrichAfricanadventureandaswetippedourwingstoKilimanjaroinadieutherewasthesenseoflossofleavingapartofourselvesbehind.WearealreadydiscussingthereturntoAfricafurthersafarisinteractionsandexplorationsofthisamazingcontinent.ThereisnodoubtthatwewillcertainlydependonthetalentsandcaringhandsofBushtrackstoguideusTomPassalacquaandgrandsonLucaSandiattheDaphneSheldrickElephantOrphanageKenya1.800.995.8689WWW.Bushtracks.com7 TerearenomoviesdocumentariesorphotosthatcanprepareoneforthedeeplypersonalexperiencethatisAfrica.Ithinkmybiggesttakeawayromourtripwastheabsoluteperectiononatureinitsraweststate.Thesynergybetweenanimalenvironmentandlandscapeissimultaneouslybreathtakingandexhilarating.AndthoughIinnowayeltinsignifcantAricamademeeelthatthehumanspecieswasmostlikelyMotherNaturesaterthoughttoanalreadyperectworldKimberlyFlowersPublicRelationsConsultantMichaelFlowersHomebuilderSeanFlowersStudentTheFlowersFamilyatAntsNestWaterbergSouthAfrica8 TonyHookerArtistILeeHookerArtistBothouslovetheoutdoors.Teserenityothewild.Teopenexpansesandtheuntoldbeautyothedesertsthebushandtherivers.JustaddanimalsandthewonderulbirdsotheOkavangoDeltatopaintamagnifcentandlastingtableauinyourmindyourheartandyourmemory.WehadbeentogetherinKenyain1964.Hereweweresome47yearslateranditwasour45thweddinganniversary.ILeesuggestedwedosomethingspecialandrevisitAfricatocelebrateourmarriageandtoenjoysomethingthathadmeantsomuchtobothofusovertheyears.WithBushtracksdoingtheplanningincludingsomecustomoptionsitwassoontobe.ShortlywewereoverlookingtheplainsofNamibiadrinkingatoasttoouryearstogetherourgoodluckandthebeautythatunfoldedbeforeusinsuchaspectacularway.AtoastinSossusvleiNamibia1.800.995.8689WWW.BUShTRACKS.CoM9 Whenwewereoriginallyplanningourtripwewerehesitantaboutbringingthekidsinpartbecausetheywerejust5and8yearsold.Halfwaythroughthetripwerealizedthatwewouldhavebeendevastatedtohavebeenenjoyingtheseexperienceswithoutourkids.TracyBianchiPsychotherapistHighSchoolCounselorTitoBianchiVice-PresidentDeerfeldRealty10 Everymorningbrightandearlythesunpeekingupoverthehorizonandpreparingforamorninggamedriveouralarmlackedthepresenceofapersistingbuzzorradiomusicbutinsteadwasafriendlyandgracioussoultappingonthecanvasofourtentorknockingonourdoor.Therestofthegloriousdaywasallabouttakingintheextraordinaryexperienceofaneverydaylifethatisnotourown.SydneyBianchiStudentJacobBianchiStudent1.800.995.8689WWW.Bushtracks.com11 Sven-OlofLindbladPresidentFounderLindbladExpeditions.Inc.TerereallyisnoplacelikeAfricaandthesephotosweretakenbymybuddingphotographerdaughter.12 WhenwelandedinMalaMalaaprivategamereserveborderingSouthAricasvastKrugerNationalParkIsmiledmorebroadlythanIcaneverremember.IwashomeinAricainthebushatera20-yearabsencetogetherwithmytwocubsIsabellaandEric.AewminuteslaterwewereinourcampandIcouldhearthesoundsoamiliarromdecadespastelephantsrippingoliageromatreerightthereonthecampsedge.IlookedatIsabellaandEricandtheytoowerebeaming.ItwastheirfrsttimeinAricaandthatnightIwasgentlyadmonishedornottakingthemtheresooner.Thedaysthatollowedwereulloadventureandunandmoresmilesthanyoucanpossiblyimagine.PhotosIsabellaLindbladinLowerZambeziNationalPark1.800.995.8689WWW.Bushtracks.com13 OnourreturnfightmysisterleanedovermyseatandsaidTiswasthebesttripomylie.EllynaBerglundArtistMysisterandIhavetraveledtheworldtogethersincewewerekids.Therearenocontinentswehaventtouched.MyfrsttimeinAricawithBushtrackswassoliechangingIvowedtoreturnwithmyamilyassoonaspossible.IwantedmydaughtertoseeitandeelitasIdid.TheBerglundEberweinFamilydancingwithguideThuto14 HavingspenttwoyearsinthePeaceCorpsinEthiopiaAfricahasalwaysbeeninmybloodbuttakingmydaughterRobinandsonJakeonprivateairsafarisweretwooflifespeakexperiences.RichCaseyBiotechExecutiveOnthelastdayoourstayatMamboCampintheOkavangoDeltain2001mydaughterRobinandIwerehavingbreakastaloneonadeckoverlookingaswampyarea.Robinmentionedhowcoolitwouldbeialionshoweduptoseeusof.Unbelievablyatthatverymomentamagnicentlionesscameamblingoutothebushlessthan50yardsawayromus.Talkaboutaatherdaughterbondingexperience.1.800.995.8689WWW.Bushtracks.com15 SusanEvansEGrantEvansITSecurityExecutiveELaurenEvansMedicalStudentKamerynEvansStudentEScottEvansStudentEReedPieperStudentourfamilytripfeleventAfricawaswithutadubtthetripfalifetime.Ntnlywasitfuneducatinalbeyndallexpectatinsbutitwasafamilybndingtimethatwilllastfrever.JanandozgrandparentswillfreverberememberedasBebeandBambGrandmtherandGrandfatherinSwahili.Africawillbeinurheartsfrever.16 JanicePieperEChristopherPieperOutdoorExperienceBusinessOwnerElanaLombardEducatorEGwendolynPieperStudentEOzPieperConsultantAricawasalietimeexperience.Itwasanadventurethatspannedgenerationsoferingtheentireamilyawealthoimpressionablememories.Itisamustdoonthebucketlistandshouldbemovedto1.ThePieperPackonsafariinTanzania1.800.995.8689WWW.Bushtracks.com17 Formyfathers70thbirthdayIwantedtogivehimsomethingspecialandmemorable.Somethingnotfoundonastoreshelfororderedonlineorsomethinghemightalreadyhave.EricFreidenrichVicePresidentAirTreksWiththehelpofthecreativeteamatBushtracksmyideaofsomethingspecialwentfromconcepttorealityathreegenerationfamilysafariinAfrica.MyfathermysonandIspentthreememorableweeksinSouthAfricaBotswanaandZambiaexploringexperiencingandsavoringeverymomentofourtrip.Thetimewesharedtogetherandthesightssoundsandexperiencesweencounteredweretrulymemorableandsomethingthatwewillallhavewithusfortherestofourlives.TeoFreidenrichStudentJohnFreidenrichGrandfather18 JackRedingAttorneyBarbaraRedingBestFriendJackandBarbaraRedingcenterrightwithclosefriendsatMalaMalaGreaterKrugerNationalParkSouthAfricaTemagicofAfricabroughtoutthebestinallofus.MybirthdayisoneIllneverforget.AtMalaMalaweencounteredgirafezebrarhinoelephantlionCapebufaloleopardandantelopeoallkindsinanactionpackedthreedays.VisionsolionsmunchingkudolegsgraceulgirafespokingheadsoutothetreetopsleopardsghtingoverremainsoimpalarhinosmudbathingelephantscaringortheiryoungwereREAL.TheZambeziRiverafordedanentirelydiferentexperienceheadingupanddowntheriverinsearchocrocodilesandtigershorstoppingatoldvillagesitestoinspectunearthedpotteryortakingopportunitiestoseenotonlylargegamebutthetinyinhabitantsothepark.1.800.995.8689WWW.Bushtracks.com19 OurBushtrackstripwasdoneattherequestofmymomRachelAnnSeghesio.Wetraveledasafamilyin2008andmompassedawayunexpectedlyin2010.Iamsogratefulthatwetookthistripasafamily.Shelivesonwithusallfromthesememories.TheSeghesioFamilyatVictoriaFallsZambiaWillSeghesioStudentJoeySeghesioStudent20 IhavebeenblessedtohaveseenmanyplacesduringmylifebutnowherehasbeenasmemorableasAfrica.ItisstillvividandfreshinmymindandaplacethatCathyandIlongtogobackto.Aphotographerknowsthebestlightofthedayisbeforesunuporjustafterthesunsetsbelowthehorizonimagineifthecolorswerethatvividforthewholeday.ThatiswhatAfricawastome.ThisphotowastakenofCathyandIjustafterapodofhippospassedinthelakeinfrontofusatsundownertime.PeteSeghesioWineGrowerTeJourneymanProjectCathySeghesioProprietorTeJourneymanProject1.800.995.8689WWW.Bushtracks.com21 Thecoreexperienceformyfamilywastoshareauniqueadventurethatopenedallourheartsandeyesbindingustotheenvironmentandhowwerelatetotheotherofearthsgloriouscreatures.Acompellinglieafrmingadventurecombiningtheastonishingwiththeexhilaratinginelegantashion.AtotalWOWPeterGuberandsonJacksonatopanelephantintheOkavangoDeltaBotswanaPeterGuberChairmanCEOMandalayEntertainmentGroupJacksonGuberStudent22 LosAngelesgobackfeeingthequietdesperationotiremartsanddaytimeTVdrawnbysomemythicremembranceostrengthandsunlightoreshmorningswhenwewalkedwiththebeastswovengraceullyintotheirworld.Theacilitieswereoutstandingtheconnectionswerefawlessandthepersonalattentiontodetailwasunprecedented.OnereturnsromAricawithindelibleimageseighty-veelephantsbathingintheriverinthelateaternoonlightastonesthrowromourlaunchaprideolionsattheedgeoalakedevouringtheirkillinthesunsetagiraepoisedinameadowontheendoarainbowortheearth-sinkingthunderoVictoriaFallsplungingatthreemilliongallonsasecondasthoughsomecosmicabysshadopenedtoswallowallthewatersotheworld.TheexperienceoAricaromtheregalliontherarerhinocerosandthecantankerouscapebualototheill-temperedhippotheelusiveleopardorthefightoathousandfamingoesisessentialtoanysojournonthisplanet.YetthereismorethantheanimalstothelureoArica.Inthecrispchillopredawnasouropenvehiclecrawledoverruttedroadstowardstherstglowoadayatimelessauralayoverthelandstretchingawaytoahorizondottedwithumbrellatreesbarelimbedunderbrush-strokeoliageleaningandreachinginthedawnlight.IimaginedthesamereshmorningourmillionyearsbeorewhentheOlduvaimanstoodinallhispristinevitalityontheshoreohisancientlakeandthehillsrosebehindhimrollingdarkandhulkinglikeaherdogreatbeasts.AricaThewordalonerecallssomeprimalSourcesomepulsatingcenterdeepintheracialmemorythemysteryooriginstheMotheroman.LiketheseaitselthisvastoceanolandwithitsdarkjunglesandmajesticmountainsistheprimordialHomethemythicEdenromwhichmenspreadovertheplanetliketerrestrialastronautssurvivingevermoreharshandarticialenvironments.Wearedrawnback.EuropeansgobackAmericansgobackpeopleromWereturntoAricatoreencountertheourmillionyearsohistorythatamereourmillenniacouldnevereace.LiketheheroinHeartoDarknesswearedrawntotheDarkContinentoourinnerselvesthedarkorestothesoulwherethemodernegoencampsinatinyclearing.Andweprojectourhal-rememberedwholenessontothatsun-drenchedlandomajorchordsandprimarycolorsosmilingprimitivesandbeautiullypaintedcreatures.WearetheShadowPeopleallenromgracecastromtheinnerEdentoawildernessoexternals.WereturntotheDarkContinentandlieawakeinourtentsprojectingourmonstersintotheAricannightstartledromsleepbythesloshingoelephantsalongthelakeshoreorthehollowbraysohipposafoatsomewheredownthedarkriver.Butthesearethebogiesobadmoviesthemisplacedspectersoasurrealcivilization.TheinnocentcreaturesthemselveswhoonceroamedthecontinentatwillnowwandertheSerengetilikeartiactsoevolutionthelastremnantsoanunragmentedworld.Oneeelsthatthisisthelastreugeoinnocencethatthelastlionsmaysoonlieinthatsunsetbythewatersedge.AlongthebanksotheChobeRivertheelephantsgatherinthedusktheirgreatdarkshapesendureasmonumentsothevastoceanoliethatoncecoveredthiscontinent.Andthegiraewhoseheadsoaredabovetherainbowintothegraymistwatchinguswithlong-lashedliquideyesspokethesadhopeoallsurvivingspecies.OnlytheringingoinsectsundertheredskyseemseternallikesomeresidualtraceothelosttribalrhythmsthemelodiouschantsoZuluandMaasaithatonceroseuplikevoicesromtheearthechoingothearhillsintheheatothedaytoadeoverthelonggrassleavingthelandindesolatesilence.Notonlyareinnumerablespeciesincludingourownthreatenedwithecologicalextinctionbutmanyarealsoatimmediateriskromhuntersandpoachers.Thereisacertainironythereoreinsayingthatweareortunatetobelivingatthistimeorourchildrenschildrenmayneverseearhinoagorillaorcountlessotherendangeredcreatures.AnditisdoublyortuitoustohaveanorganizationlikeBushtrackswiththeexpertisetoeaseusthroughwhatcanotenseemapoliticalandeconomicwilderness.OurnalthanksthentoDavidandCarolynTettorputtingtogethertheperecttrip.RitaWynWachhorstGraphicDesignerTeacherAuthorWEWOuLDLIKETOcOMMENDcAROLyNANDDAVIDTETTFORARRANGINGThEMOSTFAScINATINGTRIPOFOuRLIVES.1.800.995.8689WWW.BUShTRACKS.CoM23 PRSTSTDU.S.PoSTAGePAIDBUShTRACKSBustracksexpditins824haldsburgAvnuhaldsburgCA95448Pn1-800-995-8689Fax707-433-0258emailinfbustracks.cmwww.bushtracks.com1.800.995.8689MeMBeRoFTheLpardtaknbyBustrackstravlrSirlySandrsnAfricaInOurTravelersWords